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Penang Hill from Tranquil to Touristy

Updated: Jan 25, 2018

Penang Hill, also known as Bukit Bendera, has an altitude of about 830 metres and used to be a British hill station. Today, it is one of the popular tourist attractions on Penang Island, Malaysia. Most visitors arrived at Penang Hill for two things: the funicular train and the city view from the hilltop. In 2014, Penang Hill saw more than 1.3 million visitors (source: Wikipedia).

However, is Penang Hill worth a visit for travellers? Read on and find out.

Penang Hill in 2006

The last time I was on Penang Hill was in 2006. The only transport up the hill was the Penang Hill Railway, which was a two-section (upper and lower) funicular railway system. The carriages in operation at that time were the third-generation, Swiss-made and painted in red-and-white. The first-generation carriages started operation in 1906 and were retired in 1923. The second generations were wooden and were retired in 1977 after being in used for 54 years.

At the Lower Station, the "lower" carriage — with up to 80 passengers — would be pulled up to a platform halfway up the hill. Passengers would get off the "lower" carriage and cross the platform to board the "upper" carriage to the Upper Station at the top of the hill. The uphill ride would take 30 minutes and passengers could check out the hillside and surrounding scenery from inside the slow-moving carriage as it was pulled up the hill by cable. The fare was RM4.00 including the return trip.

The top of Penang Hill allowed a wide view of the city below, including Georgetown and also Butterworth across the Strait of Malacca on very clear days. Basically, that was the primary objective of going up Penang Hill. Apart from the Upper Station, there was a post office, a police post, a couple of small hotels, a Hindu temple and a mosque. All within walking distances on the small hilltop. A few private houses littered the hillside.

The main commercial activities were few mobile stalls selling souvenirs and simple food stuffs. I remembered having a cup of hot butter-baked sweet corns while strolling around the tranquil hilltop and enjoying the surrounding views. The temperature was cooling too with occasional mists.

Penang Hill in 2017

With good impressions of Penang Hill in 2006, I did not mind revisiting the hilltop again and was back in July 2017. Much had changed since I was last there 11 years ago — in fact, way too much changes.

In 2010, Penang Hill Railway undergone a major overhaul and the two-section railway system was retired. The new system is still of the funicular type but does not require changing of trains midway. The new blue-and-white Swiss-made carriages are longer and can accommodate 100 passengers — well, when they are packed like sardines. The system is also faster, taking just 10 minutes to reach the top. But it took us more than an hour to board the carriage at the Lower Station, there were too many people even on a weekday.

However, instead of being a sight-seeing carriage that it once was, the new system was so fast that no one could see anything out of the side windows. It was solely a form of transportation to bring as many people up the hill as possible and faster. The top of Penang Hill is not a plateau — imagine filling the small hilltop with loads of people. Also, the fare had been raised to RM30.00 two-ways for non-Malaysians — 650% increased as compared to 2006!

A new viewing platform was also constructed on the hilltop for more visitors to get wider views of the city below. I took some photos from the platform too. Even on a sunny day, the views were not that great due to pollution in the air.

Personally, I feel that Penang hilltop is too far from the city. To get wider views of the city, it is a great place, but to get good views, nope. Sometimes, I really wonder what is so great about city views to city dwellers.

Next, the historical sites. The familiar old Hindu temple, standing since the 1800's, was the next best place to see. The colourful sculptures on its roof had faded quite drastically in the last 10 years but still as elegant as before. In the past, the hilltop was a cool place to get away from the heat below, but due to global climatic changes, it was a place closer to the sun. Stronger sun-rays bleached the sculptures day after day.

And Masjid Penang Hill Mosque was right beside the temple. It looked bigger than before due to the extended roof tops.

There was also this old British guard house that was still standing to this day. While the guard house was a historical monument, the premise beyond the gate was private property. That means the old guard house was also a private property.

Other than the historical structures and the buildings that were already on the hill in 2006, there were more additions to the little hilltop. While some were great additions, most were after the tourism dollars.

What were the better additions? First, a 2nd-gen wooden carriage was put up as public exhibit. And it was free for taking photos with it — read further to find out why I am stressing this point.

If you want to look for the red-and-white 3rd-gen carriage, it was parked on the railway track, in the middle of the hill. You will need to be standing at either end of the new train carriage to see it when going up or down the hill. The side windows were useless in the high-speed carriages as everything flashed by. Why was it parked there of all places?

Second, setting up a cafe on the hill was the best thing to have. It provided a place for visitors to relax, sip coffee and enjoy the "tranquility" and city views. The little hill terrace was set up by David Brown's Restaurant & Tea Terrace. However, looking over the railing, you will see a river of people and "ugly" exhibits just 2 metres down — the boundary of the small tranquil space.

That were the two good things — only. So, what's bad?

1. "No Photographs without Paying" or similar signs were everywhere on the hilltop. Many irrelevant exhibits were set up to get visitors to pay and have their photos taken with them. And the exhibits were large items — like a long love lane, love-locks railings, etc — occupying every available space on the hill except the walkway. Now you know why the wooden carriage exhibit was good? And why there was no space to allocate the red-and-white carriage?

2. New buildings on the hilltop obstructed the city views below. The new buildings were mini-museums and entertainment theatres — none were free and some were rip-offs (better do your homework before buying any tickets). And because of these structures that obstructed the views, a new viewing platform was built, adding more concrete to the hill.

3. A paying nature walk. While I liked the idea of a nature trail and canopy walk, a steep entrance ticket of RM50.00 was not something I called "value for money". Why pay so much to see nature? And, instead of setting up an eco-friendly canopy walk to reduce damages to the natural habitat, a concrete one was erected. Will wild animals stay in man-made environments with lots of human activities? Coming from Singapore where nature trails and tree-top walk are free, the steep fee is absolutely no-go.

I was rather disappointed with all the touristy activities that I did not bother to take more photos. The hilltop was not worth staying for more than an hour — if not for the time spent in the cafe. The tranquil Penang Hill that I once knew was gone. It had became a pay-to-pay-more touristy spot that are so common in Malaysia.

So, is Penang Hill worth a visit? For the city views, historical structures and hilltop cafe, it probably worth one visit on a weekday. Other than that... you decide for yourself.

#PenangHill #Penang #Malaysia #NotWorthVisiting

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