Updated: Aug 14, 2020
In previous articles, we covered a list of local food in the old town of Malacca. In this post, we take a walk outside of Jonker Street, or the old town, and check out more eating places in close proximity.
1. Nancy's Kitchen
Nancy's Kitchen is a popular restaurant that serves authentic Peranakan food. You can try their popular appetiser Top Hats (pai tee) and few dishes including non-spicy fried egg cincalok (fermented shrimps), spicy chicken candlenut (one of their signature dishes), steamed fish paste (otak-otak), water spinach, chicken in tamarind, etc (we tried these in two visits).
These pai tee (above) are called "Top Hats" due to the crispy cups looking like inverted Englishmen's top hats.
A sumptuous Peranakan meal at Nancy's. Nancy's Kitchen also serves popiah (spring rolls), nyonya cendol and nyonya cakes, which are great options for afternoon tea.
For those who have not been to Melaka in recent years, Nancy's Kitchen had moved to its current location at Taman Kota Laksamana since September 2015. It's just a short walk from Jonker Walk.
11am to 5pm; Fri/Sat/P.Holiday: 11am to 9pm | Closed on Tuesday
2. Sun May Hiong Satay House (新味香沙爹屋)
Despite it being a stone's throw away from Jonker Walk, Sun May Hiong Satay House do attract large crowds during weekends. In the past, the satays were grilled outside the shop but new regulations make them prepare the satays in the back of the shop.
Sun May Hiong Satay House serves mainly pork satays, and they do have offal satays like pig intestine and pig liver. They have chicken satays too, sometimes. The satays here are usually slightly charred with a smoky taste that adds some flavours to the meat. They use peanut-pineapple sauce, which is not spicy but sour-sweet (wonder if it is a local characteristic to add pineapple to spicy peanut sauce).
10am to 6pm | Closed from Monday to Wednesday
3. Xiang Ji Satay House (祥记沙爹屋)
Xiang Ji Satay House is located closer to Jonker Street, just a few minutes' walk from the stage near the end of Jonker Walk. Xiang Ji's satay style is very similar to Sun May Hiong (some said they are related). Apart from tasty pork satays, they have otak-otak (spicy fish paste grilled in banana leaves) as well.
12pm to 5:30pm daily
4. Capitol Satay
Satay celup, or sate celup, is uniquely Malacca and is only available there. Do not miss it if you have not tried it before. We visited three sate celup outlets and is recommending Capitol Satay only. The main reason being that they changed the satay sauce and added minced peanuts before our eyes. Hygiene should still be the primary consideration when it comes to food. It also means the price is slightly higher for each new pot of satay sauce.
Capitol Satay always has long queues. The wait can be up to 2 hours on weekends if you go there late. After getting a table, go to the fridges to get the food (on skewers) and cook them in the pot of satay sauce before eating. After the meal, the staff will count the number of skewers and call for the bill.
To avoid queues, go either on weekdays or at 4pm on weekends. We did not try going after 10pm to check on the queue.
4pm to 1am; Sunday: 5pm to 12am | Closed on Monday
5. Baba Charlie Nyonya Cake
Baba Charlie Nyonya Cake is located quite a distance from Jonker Walk. If you are in need of some exercise after all the eating, take a walk there for about 30-40 minutes. You may need a GPS to guide you as it is not located along the main road.
Nyonya cakes are usually sweet and some may have spicy fillings. They are usually consumed as breakfast or during tea time. Don't be fool by the size of these bite-size cakes, 5 pieces can make a meal. Made with coconut milk or coconut shreds, these cakes can go rancid after some hours, so do consume them as soon as possible and avoid warming them under the hot sun.
Baba Charlie has quite some varieties of nyonya cakes, nyonya dumplings and other pastries. Pick what catches your eyes. Do go there in the morning before the cakes get sold out, especially on weekends. If some trays are empty, ask if they are making new ones, don't just walk out. Also, buy just enough to eat within the next few hours and don't leave them overnight without refrigeration. Try their nyonya dumplings too!
Alternatively, visit Baba Charlie Cafe where you can try their nyonya food and also nyonya cakes in a restaurant instead of packing away and needing to find a place to eat.
10:30am to 3pm | Closed on Thursday
6. Fried Oyster @ Medan Makan Boon Leong (a.k.a. Boon Leong Foodcourt)
The fried oyster stall at Medan Makan has long "queue" almost every night. You will not see the physical queue as customers will place their orders and walk away, coming back later to collect it. The waiting is usually half an hour or more. A stark contrast to the fried oysters at Sin Yin Hoe Restaurant (see this), the stall owner uses bigger oysters (but lesser).
The fried oysters are packed for taking away only. But you can sit at the tables in the fluorescent-lit back alley. Note that the tables are set up by the owner of the dessert stall, so buy dessert or drinks from the owner to use a table. Otherwise, you will have to eat the fried oyster omelette back in your hotel / guest house.
7pm to 12am | Closed on Tuesday